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Is Liquid Yeast Better Than Dry Yeast? A Dive into the Deep Slurry and the Evolution of Home Brewing Yeasts

Since the introduction of liquid yeast in the late 1980s, homebrewers have been debating whether liquid yeast is better than dry yeast, and this debate can get intense, sometimes even resulting in beer drinking contests, where beer aficionados have to enjoy many different kinds of beers. Oh, no. The question of dried versus liquid yeast exists in a historical context, and to help you truly understand this topic so you can speak condescendingly to the poor uninitiated saps, we need to delve into the history of yeast in home brewing, the evolution of both liquid and dried yeast, and how modern advancements have blurred or in many cases erased the lines between these two forms of yeast. So grab a beer and let’s do this crazy thing!

The Early Dark Days of Homebrewing:  The Domination of Dried Yeast

In the early days of home brewing, and before 1978 when home beer making was officially legalized, dried yeast was the only option available to brewers. This was long before the craft beer movement took off, during a time when home brewing was often a hobby practiced by enthusiasts (read crackpots or nutcases) who were obsessed (or deluded) on creating something beyond the bland, mass-produced beers (swill) that dominated the market. And who today wouldn’t trade that hazy IPA for a case of Blatz? And by the way, coincidentally, “Blatz” is not only the sound the can makes when you open this stuff, but it’s also the sound you make when you’re hurling in the toilet at 3:00 AM. Just saying….

Dry yeast was—and still is—a highly stable and convenient product. It can be stored for long periods without refrigeration and is easy to ship. However, the variety of dried yeast strains available years ago was limited, and the quality of the yeast was sketchy. At that time, the process of drying yeast was crude and typically produced a low viability yield compared to today’s modern dried yeasts.

Even the best beers brewed with these early dried yeasts were a taste departure from commercial beers, not only because of the unique (okay, the bat-shit crazy) recipes, but also due to the omnipresent “homebrew” aftertaste that was difficult to eliminate. This background “homebrew” taste was generally the result of the low-quality of the yeast.

The Emergence of Liquid Yeast: A Game (and Beer) Changer. It Changed Our World, Man!

The introduction of liquid yeast in the late 1980s introduced a huge improvement in quality, and homebrewers immediately noticed these taste improvements. Companies like Wyeast and White Labs began offering liquid yeast cultures that were pure, fresher, contained more viable cells, and included a wider variety of strains, many of which came directly from commercial breweries. These liquid yeasts allowed homebrewers to experiment with more authentic and specialized strains, creating beers that resembled commercial craft beers in flavor, aroma, and mouthfeel. And thus began liquid yeast’s good reputation that continues to this day.

Liquid yeast offered several advantages over dry yeast:

• Viability and Vitality: Liquid yeast packs contained live (though dormant) yeast cells in its natural state of hydration, which were often more viable than their dry counterparts. This led to a more vigorous fermentation, reducing the risk of off-flavors.
• Purity: Liquid yeast was produced with greater quality control, meaning it was pure yeast without the presence of small quantities of off-flavor producing bacteria, which commonly plagued the early dried yeast strains.
• Variety: Liquid yeast producers offered a vast selection of strains, including those used by famous breweries. This gave homebrewers access to the same yeast strains used to produce their favorite commercial beers, and in many cases, like German hefeweizens, the taste impact was profound.
• Fermentation Characteristics: Liquid yeasts tended to have more predictable and consistent fermentation flavor profiles, which was crucial for brewers aiming to replicate specific beer styles. You could make a bock taste lock a bock and a wee heavy taste like a wee heavy.

Because of these advantages, liquid yeast quickly gained popularity, and dried yeasts’ reputation suffered. Many brewers regarded dry yeast as inferior and associated it with the homebrew aftertaste that they were trying to avoid.

The Rise of Modern Dry Yeast: A Revolution in Quality

I suppose this is ultimately a story of capitalism and competition, and to use the parlance of professional Nobel-prize-winning economists, the dried yeast producers “got their asses kicked,” and they didn’t like that.  In recent years, however, the quality difference between liquid and dry yeast has narrowed to the point of insignificance. Advances in yeast drying technology have led to the development of dry yeast strains that are virtually identical to their liquid counterparts in measurable flavor and performance. Companies like Fermentis and Lallemand have invested heavily in research and development to bring the quality of their dry yeast to the same level as liquid yeast.

Here’s how modern dry yeast has caught up (or how they got their asses un-kicked):

• Improved Drying Techniques: Newer methods of drying yeast involve carefully controlled processes that maintain higher viability rates. The yeast cells are healthier and more robust when rehydrated, leading to more consistent fermentations. Gone are the days when the machine operators would call out, “Hey, Jimmy Jim Bob, hold my beer and watch me dry this!”
• Strain Development: Yeast manufacturers have developed new strains specifically for drying, ensuring that these strains can survive the drying process without losing their desirable characteristics.
• Increased Viability: Modern dry yeast contains a significantly higher number of viable cells per gram compared to older dried yeast, making it comparable to liquid yeast in terms of cell count, fermentation flavor, rate and attenuation.
• Extended Shelf Life: Dry yeast can be stored for long periods without refrigeration, which is a significant advantage for shipping packs across the country.
• Price: Dry yeast costs significantly less than liquid yeast.

A good example of dried versus liquid is Safale US-05 versus Wyeast 1056 (American Ale), which are genetically identical. Many brewers have conducted side-by-side comparisons and found little if any difference in the final beer, which shows how far dry yeast has come.

Conclusion: Why Not Have the Best of Both Worlds?

So, is liquid yeast better than dry yeast? Or what if you reversed this question and asked if dry yeast is better than liquid yeast? The answer is: it depends. For many years, liquid yeast was the top choice for homebrewers trying to produce the highest-quality beers with the most authentic flavors. However, the technological advancements in dry yeast production have leveled the playing field, making dry yeast a viable (ha ha, pun intended)—and more convenient—alternative.

For most homebrewers, the choice between liquid and dry yeast now comes down to personal preference, the specific strain required for the brew, and the practical considerations of storage and cost. While liquid yeast offers the advantage of a wider variety of strains, modern dry yeast is more convenient, has a longer shelf life, is half- to one-third the price, and performs as well as its liquid counterpart.

In the end, both forms of yeast have their place. The best choice is the one that suits your brewing needs and goals. There’s an old saying in the beer world: “What’s your favorite beer? The one that’s in front of me!” The same can be said for yeast. What’s your favorite? The one I’m using to make beer, because homebrewing is awesome!

 

Do I Need to Rehydrate Dry Yeast?

As a home maker of beer, wine, cider or mead, you will inevitably (and quickly) face the existential question of whether you should rehydrate dry yeast before pitching it into your batch - or should you simply sprinkle it in and walk away. Like many topics, there is no single best answer, and both techniques carry their own pros and cons. In this blog, we’ll examine the details of each approach to help you decide which method is best for you, or at least help you sleep better at night. We will generally be using the language of beer makers (like “pitching the wort, bro”), but the techniques and ideas are common to wine, cider and mead.

The Basics: What is Yeast Rehydration?

Rehydration involves dissolving dry yeast in a small amount of warm water (typically around 95-100°F or 35-38°C) for about 15 minutes before adding it to your wort or other beverage of choice. The rehydration process allows the yeast cells to absorb water and begin waking up from their dormant state, which allows the yeast to restructure its cell membrane and prepare them for a vigorous, healthy and happy fermentation.

Pros of Rehydrating Dry Yeast

1. Better Yeast Viability and Performance

Proper yeast rehydration leads to higher yeast viability, which is the standard fancy industry jargon simply meaning that you have the most live yeast cells ready to ferment your wort, and we all would agree that’s a good thing. When yeast is properly rehydrated, it will lead to a faster start to fermentation and potentially a more complete fermentation. This is definitely important when brewing high-gravity beers, where a strong and healthy yeast population is critical for achieving the desired high alcohol content, avoiding off-flavors, and completing the fermentation without giving you the headache of having to add more yeast at some later point to finish the job.

2. Reduced Risk of Stressed Yeast

Pitching dry yeast directly into wort, especially if the wort is cold, can shock the yeast cells. This shock can cause some cells to die or become stressed, which may lead to incomplete fermentation or off-flavors such as acetaldehyde (green apple) or diacetyl (the dreaded movie theater popcorn butter flavor). Proper rehydration helps the yeast begin fermentation without the added stress of adapting to the wort environment.

3. Improved Fermentation Consistency

Brewers who rehydrate their yeast commonly report consistent fermentation results. Since rehydrated yeast starts fermentation more quickly, it outcompetes any stray wild yeasts or bacteria that might be present, which reduces the risk of contamination and dreaded off-flavors. Consistent fermentation also means that your beer’s flavor profile is more predictable from batch to batch, which is important if you're trying to replicate a favorite recipe.

Cons of Rehydrating Dry Yeast

Oh, great, so you’ve just learned all of the wonderful advantages of yeast rehydration – can’t we just leave it at that? Nope. Like we’ve said earlier, there is no clear winner in the debate of whether to rehydrate or not, so let’s look at the cons.

 

1. Added Complexity and Inconvenience

Complexity is the bane to the lazy person, or perhaps we should say, the person who’s trying to maximize reward by doing very little. Rehydrating yeast adds an extra step to the brewing process, which is a drawback for brewers seeking simplicity, and what’s wrong with simplicity? Yeast rehydration requires additional equipment (a sanitized glass, thermometer, and water) and extra time. Yeast rehydration also requires careful temperature control and timing to make sure that the yeast is properly rehydrated without being deranged or heartlessly murdered. For new brewers, this added complexity can be intimidating, and the process can feel like more trouble than it’s worth. And that’s no fun.

2. Risk of Contamination

Like every step in brewing, when rehydrating yeast, there's a chance, however so slight, of contamination if the water or container used isn’t properly sanitized. Since the yeast is in a vulnerable state during rehydration, any chemical contaminants present (such as residual detergent from a poorly rinsed glass from the dishwasher) can potentially harm the yeast and thus the quality of the fermentation. Pitching dry yeast directly into the wort avoids this risk, as the wort is already sanitized by the boiling process.

Pros of Pitching Dry Yeast Directly

Okay, so if rehydrating dried yeast is so wonderful, then why for many homebrewers has pitching dry yeast directly into the wort become standard practice? Let’s check it out.

1. Simplicity

There’s something to be said for simplicity. Pitching dry yeast directly is simple, making it a tempting option for beginner and expert brewers. You open the packet, sprinkle the yeast onto the wort, and you’re done. If you’ve got good manual dexterity, you can even do this with a beer in one hand. This simplicity is one of the biggest advantages of direct pitching, particularly for those who are new to brewing or who want to minimize the number of steps involved in the process. And no brewers, however new or advanced, should feel the peer pressure to make the process more complicated.

2. Modern Yeast Strains

Given advancements in yeast production, overwhelmingly most modern dry yeast strains are robust enough to perform well without rehydration. We can’t overstate this fact. Years ago, dried yeast quality was marginal, and rehydration made a big difference. Beginning in the early 2000s, manufacturers developed advanced emulsification and drying procedures, which produced more robust yeast cells that could be added directly to the wort, making the brewing process simpler for home brewers, and we appreciated this. These advancements also increased the perception of dried yeasts’ quality. Before these advancements, liquid yeast had a quality advantage. Today, on a strain-by-strain comparison, dried yeast produces quality results equal to liquid yeast.

3. Minimized Risk of Contamination

Dry yeast is manufactured in a sterile-like conditions. Thus, the risk of introducing contaminants when pitching directly is negligible. By skipping the rehydration step, you eliminate possible sources of contamination, like accidentally using an improperly sanitized glass, thermometer or spoon during the rehydration.

Conclusion: To Rehydrate or Not to Rehydrate?

So after reading all of this, your take away is “who the hell knows?” I always rehydrate my dried yeast if I have the time, but typically I don’t have the time, so there you go. I have good results both ways, but yes, I do sleep better at night after rehydrating dried yeast. Ultimately, the decision to rehydrate dry yeast or pitch it directly boils down (pun intended) to personal brewing style. Rehydration offers benefits in terms of yeast health and fermentation vigor, especially for high-gravity high alcohol beers or when brewing under challenging conditions, like cool lager fermentations. However, direct pitching is much simpler, less prone to contamination, and, given the technological advancements in yeast manufacturing, extremely effective.

My recommendation has always been that if you’re new to brewing, direct pitching the dried yeast is the easiest and best option. As you gain experience, you can experiment with rehydration to see if it makes a noticeable difference in your brews. In the end, the best method is the one that consistently gives you the results you’re happy with, because that’s the reason we brew.

 

Ask any mead maker and they’ll tell you: mead making is cool. Mead making is mystical. Mead making is like stepping into the shoes of ancient alchemists of centuries past blending age-old traditions with the advantage of modern creativity. You're not just brewing a beverage - you're crafting a magical elixir that connects the past with the present, creating your own unique twist on a beverage enjoyed by Vikings, medieval knights, mystical druids and you!

One of the first steps in the process of mead making is preparing your honey. There are many different methods available, some traditional, some modern, and a simple internet search can quickly become overwhelming. In this blog, we'll explore the most popular methods for using honey in mead making, ranked in order by their overall popularity. We’ll present the information in outline form so you can get to the good information quickly, because, let's face it, most of us have that tldr mindset.

 

1. Direct Honey Addition

2. Using Sulphites

3. Pasteurization

4. Boiling

Wrapping it All Up

We fermentation hobbyists have a tendency to make things more complicated than they need to be. Preparing honey for mead making doesn't have to be complicated. Remember - making mead is as much about the journey as it is about the final product. Whether you choose to add your honey directly, use sulphites, pasteurize, or boil, each method has its own set of benefits that can lead to delicious and unique meads. Which one should you use? The direct addition is the easiest and most common, but experimenting with different techniques can be a fun way to discover what works best for you and your mead. And fun (hopefully) is the ultimate reason we engage with this hobby. Cheers!

Many of the old, traditional wine making books (not that anyone reads books anymore) talk about using sulphite solutions for sanitization. And with popular alternatives like Star San having taken over the world, you might wonder if sulphite solutions can indeed be used as sanitizers, or if this was just old-timey lore.

As it turns out, in fact, sulphite solutions can be used as effective sanitizers for home wine-, cider- and mead making. Sulphite solutions can be made from either potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite, and both work well to prevent contamination by killing bacteria, wild yeast, and other unwanted microorganisms.

How to Use a Sulphite Solution for Sanitizing

1. Prepare the Solution:
• Dissolve 4 tablespoon (50 grams) of potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite in 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of warm water.
2. Sanitize Equipment:
• Thoroughly rinse or submerge all equipment in the sulphite solution. Make sure all surfaces come into contact with the solution.
3. Contact Time:
• Allow the equipment to stay in contact with the solution for at least 10 minutes.
4. Drain Well:
• Drain the equipment well. No rinsing or air drying is necessary, so you can use the sanitized equipment right away.

Well, if you really want to geek out about things, here’s how sulphite solutions work for sanitizing winemaking equipment: It's all about the SO₂. How many times have I said that? SO₂. I have a tee shirt that reads "It's the SO₂, Dummy!"

1. Release of Sulphur Dioxide (SO₂):
• When potassium metabisulfite (K₂S₂O₅) or sodium metabisulfite (Na₂S₂O₅) is dissolved in water, it releases sulphur dioxide (SO₂) gas. This gas is the active sanitizing agent.
• The chemical reaction for potassium metabisulfite in water is:
  

  K₂S₂O₅ + H₂O → 2KHSO₃

  KHSO₃ → K⁺ + HSO₃⁻

  HSO₃⁻ + H₂O → H₂SO₄ + SO₂

• _{(Damn, Neidermeyer, you're a geek. How 'bout you just give me your lunch money right now so I don't have to kick your ass.)}
• Similar reactions occur with sodium metabisulfite, so don't ask me to repeat the chemistry. Plus, I have no more lunch money.
2. Antimicrobial Properties:
• Inhibits Microorganisms: SO₂ is highly effective at inhibiting the growth and activity of a wide range of microorganisms, including bacteria, wild yeasts, and molds. It works by disrupting their metabolism and enzyme function, leading to cell death. Hey, they weren't invited to the winemaking party. They knew what they were getting into, so I say let them die.
3. Chemical Environment:
• pH Impact: SO₂ is more effective in acidic environments (lower pH), which is typically the case in wine and cider making. The acidic environment enhances the antimicrobial activity of SO₂.
• Residual Protection: Even after initial sanitation, a small amount of residual SO₂ remains on the surfaces of the equipment, providing ongoing protection against microbial contamination.

The Many Benefits of Using a Sulphite Solution

Well, they won't do your taxes or help you save for retirement, but they have other useful applications:

• Effective Broad-Spectrum Sanitizer: I hate to use the term "broad-spectrum" because it reminds me of the crazy stuff I put on my front lawn, but oh, well... Anyway, sulphite solutions are effective against a wide range of unwanted microorganisms, and by wide range, I mean I don't want any of them.
• No Rinsing Required: After sanitizing, there is no need to rinse the equipment with water, as the small amount of residual SO₂ will not harm the wine and will help in preserving it.
• Easy to Prepare and Use: Sulphite solutions are easy to prepare and use. Yeah, well so is Star San, but if it's the zombie apocalypse and I don't have any Star San around, then I'm using my sulphite solution. Just saying.

 

So now you know how a sulphite solution can effectively sanitize your equipment and reduce the risk of contamination, leading to better quality wine. And after this chemistry demonstration, you'll need plenty of good quality wine to bribe the neighborhood bully not to take your lunch money.

It’s fairly common for beginner home winemakers to hear intimidating, chemically-sounding terms like “postassium metabisulphite” and wonder if they are adding dangerous compounds to their wine. It’s natural to have concerns, but you might be surprised to learn that sulphites are also natural.

What Are Sulphites?

First of all, it’s interesting to note that sulphites are natural in that they occur in nature. In fact, sulphites occur in wine as a byproduct of fermentation, even if no additional sulphites are added. During fermentation, yeast metabolizes the sugars in grape juice, producing not only alcohol and carbon dioxide but also small amounts of sulphur dioxide (SO₂). This natural production of SO₂ serves as a microbial preservative and antioxidant, contributing to the wine's stability and longevity. Consequently, all wines, even those labeled as "sulphite-free," contain some level of naturally occurring sulphites due to the yeast’s metabolic activity.

Okay, so sulphites occur naturally, but what are they? Sulphites are compounds that contain sulphur dioxide (SO₂), which is widely used in winemaking as a natural preservative and sanitizer. Common forms include potassium metabisulfite and sodium metabisulfite. In home winemaking, they are generally used interchangeably.

Why Are Sulphites Used in Winemaking?

1. Preservation:
• Prevent Oxidation: Okay, so whenever we use the term “preservative” things start to sound scary, and perhaps rightfully so, because the industrial food producers do in fact put some scary compounds in our food. But when you think of sulphites, think of antioxidants like ascorbic acid, also known as vitamin C. Sulphites are powerful antioxidants, and thus they protect wine from oxidation, which can spoil the wine’s flavor and aroma and lead to browning. Sulphites help maintain the wine's freshness and longevity.
• Inhibit Microbial Growth: Sulphites prevent the growth of unwanted bacteria and wild yeast, which reduces the risk of spoilage. With the bad guys out of the way, our yeast can ferment the wine correctly.
2. Sanitization:
• Equipment Sanitizer: Winemakers often use sulphite solutions to sanitize winemaking equipment, which helps eliminate harmful microorganisms that could contaminate and produce off-flavors in our wine.

Are Sulphites Safe?

1. Regulated Use:
• Safety Standards: This brings to mind thoughts like “everything in moderation”, or “too much of a good thing.” Vitamin A is necessary for survival, but too much can kill you. Arctic explorers learned this the hard way after eating the liver of polar bears. Sulphite levels in wine are regulated by food safety authorities worldwide, including the FDA in the United States and the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). These regulations make sure safe amounts are used for consumption, and that’s a good thing.
• Typical Levels: Most wines contain sulphite levels well within safety limits. For example, commercial wines typically contain between 20-200 parts per million (ppm) of sulphites, with the upper limit for most wines being around 350 ppm, and most home winemakers use way less than that. One Campden tablet per gallon of wine produces a mere 30 ppm. To put this in perspective, dried apricots or sun-dried tomatoes can have suphite levels above 1000 ppm.  Also, wine doesn’t require high levels, and at high levels, you would taste the sulfur, and wine makers do not want to taste sulfur. Thus, sulphite levels in wine are typically many times lower than what’s found in different types of food.
2. Common Misconceptions:
• Allergies and Sensitivities: Some people have sulphite sensitivities or allergies, but these allergies are relatively rare. Compare this to lactose intolerance. Many estimates place worldwide lactose intolerance near 75%, yet milk doesn’t get a bag rap. For those with Sulphite sensitivities, symptoms may include headaches, hives, or asthma-like reactions. However, for most people, sulphites in wine pose no risk. Many people who drink wine and report headaches wrongfully attribute their headache to sulphites when in fact they are having a reaction to natural histamines found in wine, which is greater in red wines.
• Natural Occurrence: Sulphites occur naturally during the fermentation process, so even wines labeled as "sulphite-free" will contain trace amounts of naturally occurring sulphites.
3. Moderation:
• Safe Consumption: We are repeating what we said before. Everything in moderation. When used correctly and in moderation, sulphites help produce high-quality, stable wine without posing a danger to the wine maker or drinker. If you used sulphite levels in your wine where you began to taste it, that level would still be an order of magnitude less than what you would find, for example, on dried apricots.

So What Have We Learned?

Yes, there are many scary things in the world, but sulphites are not one of them. Okay, I admit that sulphites have an image problem in that the name sounds too industrial. Maybe sulphites could benefit from some professional marking, and perhaps a stylist. Maybe if we changed the name from “sulphites” to “fuzzy bunny slippers”, then everyone would feel that “warm fuzzy” feeling using sulphites for the first time. So remember, sulphites are a natural and essential additive in both home and professional winemaking. Sulphites help protect the wine’s quality, prevent spoilage, and maintain its freshness for long-term aging. So I guess we can relax and tip a glass to that!

What is Degassing?

Okay, so this question automatically brings up at least a half dozen jokes, all typically centered around the theme of not eating that grande bean burrito for last night's dinner. But seriously, degassing is an important tool in our winemaker's bag of tricks to make a higher quality wine.

• Degassing: Degassing is the process of removing dissolved carbon dioxide (CO2) from the wine after fermentation. During fermentation, yeast produces CO2 as a byproduct, which can remain dissolved in the wine. In fact, at the end of fermentation, all wines will be slightly carbonated.

Why is Degassing Important?

• Preventing Fizz: Residual CO2 can cause a fizzy or carbonated effect in still wines, which is not what you want unless you're making sparkling wine. Some people find this fizziness extremely annoying.
• Helping to Clear the Wine: Degassing the wine will help in the clearing process of the wine.

How Improper Degassing Affects Wine's Clarity

1. CO2 and Fining Agents: During maturation and clarification, if CO2 is still present in the wine, it can cause fine bubbles that keep these particles suspended, reducing the effectiveness of fining agents and preventing them from settling properly. Fining agents like bentonite or gelatin work by binding to particles (proteins, tannins, yeast, etc.) and causing them to settle out of the wine. Dissolved CO2 can interfere with this process.

2. Particle Suspension:

   • Suspended Particles: Dissolved CO2 creates micro-bubbles that can attach to particles in the wine, keeping them in suspension rather than allowing them to settle to the bottom.
   • Hazy Wine: These suspended particles contribute to haze, preventing the wine from clearing sufficiently.

Proper Degassing Techniques

To ensure your wine clears properly, it’s important to degas it thoroughly. There are numberous methods for degassing:

• Manual Stirring: Vigorously stir the wine with a long-handled sanitized spoon or drill-mounted degassing wand to release CO2. This is the most common technique by home wine makers.
• Vacuum Pump: Use a vacuum pump to create a negative pressure, which reduces the CO2's solubility and pulls the CO2 out of the wine. Vacuum pumps work great in heavy duty stainless steel tanks, but a strong vacuum could implode a bucket or break a carboy.
• Time and Temperature: Allowing the wine to sit for an extended period and keeping it at a slightly warmer temperature can also help CO2 naturally escape. This works by natural diffusion. Gas always moves from a higher concentration to a lower concentration. With enough time, the dissolved CO2 in the wine will diffuse through the water in the airlock until it reaches an equilibrium with the natural CO2 concentration in the atmosphere, which is low.

Summary

In case you weren't listening, or if you have short term memory loss or perhaps you thought this was an article about Taylor Swift, the key points are worth repeating. Proper degassing is important for these reasons:

• Enhanced Clarification: CO2 removal helps fining agents work effectively by allowing particles to settle.
• Preventing Haze: Reduces the likelihood of suspended particles causing haze.

So grab your long-handled stirring spoon and get mixing, because a properly degassed wine leads to a clearer wine, and the faster we can clear our wine, the sooner we can bottle and drink it, which makes everybody happy.

Welcome to the exciting hobby of home winemaking! Whether you're a beginner just starting your first batch, or if you’re more experienced but looking to refine your skills, this guide will help you navigate the winemaking process when making wine from ready-to-go kits like those from RJS Craft Winemaking or Winexpert.

The following instructions will closely parallel the detailed steps provided in your winemaking kit, with a particular focus on why you are performing the actual step. The winemaking kit producers have optimized their “paint-by-the-numbers” approach to winemaking instructions, but they do not tell you why you do things. It’s helpful to understanding the purpose behind each step. As you gain knowledge, you'll also gain confidence, and ultimately you’ll have more fun and make better wine, which is the point, after all.

Below is a general outline of the winemaking process, along with explanations of why each step is important. The winemaking kit producers typically organize the process around the following three principle steps:

1. Fermentation
2. Stabilizing and Clearing
3. Bottling

Remember to refer to the specific instructions included with your wine kit for precise details.

Step 1 – Fermenting the Wine

Typical Equipment Used:

• Primary Fermenter – this can be a plastic food-grade bucket and lid or a carboy and rubber bung. Make sure your fermenter is at least 7 gallons (25 liters), because you will be filling it to the 6 gallon (23 liter) volume.
• Wine Thief – a handy tool for drawing a sample of must or wine for checking specific gravity.
• Test Cylinder – the handy location for your must or juice sample where you float your hydrometer.
• Long Handled Spoon – you will need this to thoroughly mix the juice concentrate in the water. If you do not mix the concentrate completely, then your original gravity hydrometer reading will definitely be wrong.
• Airlock – it’s always best to affix and airlock to your bucket or carboy.
• Hydrometer – a common winemaker’s tool that measures the must or wine’s density, which ultimately can be used to determine the wine’s alcohol content and to determine if fermentation has completed.

 

1. Clean and sanitize the following equipment: primary fermenter (bucket and lid, or carboy and rubber bung), airlock, long-handled spoon, hydrometer, wine thief and test cylinder.

2. Prepare the bentonite. Bentonite is used for wine clarification. To learn more about bentonite, click here. Add the pack of bentonite to 1 cup (approximately 250 ml) hot or boiling water. Stir constantly to create a slurry without clumps. Set aside until Step 3. The wine kit instructions often say to pour the bentonite powder directly into the primary fermenter with some pre-measured amount of water. You can do this instead, but it becomes very difficult to fully mix the bentonite and prevent clumping.

3. Add 4 quarts (4 liters) of room temperature water (68-77˚F /20-25˚C) to the Primary Fermenter. With constant stirring, slowly add the bentonite slurry from the previous step. Stir until completely dispersed.

4. Pour the juice concentrate bag into the water / bentonite mixture in the primary fermenter.

5. We want to get every last precious drop of juice from the bag. Thus, fill the bag with some warm water, shake, and pour this juicy water mixture into the primary fermenter.

6. To the primary fermenter, add room temperature water (68-77˚F /20-25˚C) up to the 6 gallon (23 liter) volume mark. Stir vigorously. This is important for two reasons. First, vigorous stirring introduces some oxygen, which the yeast will utilize during its reproductive reparative cycle. Second, the juice concentrate is more difficult to fully dissolve than most people realize. If you do not get all of the juice concentrate evenly dissolved in the water, then your original specific gravity reading will be wrong. This is the number one reason why beginner winemakers do not measure the original specific gravity suggested by the wine kit manufacturer.

7. If your wine kit contains any other additives, like oak chips, oak powder, oak tea, raisins, grape skins, or elderflowers, add it now according to the specific instructions supplied by the winemaking kit’s manufacturer.

8. Make sure the temperature of the juice in the primary fermenter is between (68-77˚F /20-25˚C). The yeast appreciates a nice room temperature to get started. If the temperature is too cool, the yeast might not start, or it may take a long time to start. If the temperature is too cool and the yeast does not start, this doesn’t mean the yeast is dead. In this case, the yeast is just dormant, so you would need to move the primary fermenter to a place of proper temperature.

9. Take a hydrometer reading. Use the wine thief to fill the test cylinder. Gently float the hydrometer and record the specific gravity (S.G.). As stated earlier, if your original specific gravity ready is vastly different from the suggested reading, this is almost always caused by not having thoroughly mixed the juice concentrate and water. This is not a problem. All of the sugars are present in the must, and the yeast will consume them and produce a wine of the exact same alcohol as if you had measured the recommended specific gravity. This is a measurement error only. The yeast will still do its job just fine.

10. Place the primary fermenter in a warm (65-72˚F /18-22˚C) area.

11. Add the yeast. Simply sprinkle the yeast over the surface of the juice. Do not stir the yeast in. It will hydrate slowly and safely on its own.

12. Close your primary fermenter. Place the lid on the bucket or the rubber bung on the carboy. Always use an airlock to allow the CO2 gas produced during fermentation to safely escape the fermenter without building up dangerous pressure. Be sure to fill your airlock with water to the prescribed fill line.

13. If your wine kit included any type of grape skins (including dried), then for maximum color and flavor extraction, stir every two days. You can stir once a day if you would like.

14. Wine kit manufacturers sometimes recommend checking the specific gravity daily. This is unnecessary, but you can do it if you would like. When the specific gravity drops below 0.998, then proceed to Step 2 (stabilizing and clearing the wine). The fermentation may take approximately 14 days, but it could happen sooner or later, and neither is a problem as long as the specific gravity drops below 0.998, which means that the yeast has consumed all of the remaining sugar and has now stopped.

 

Step 2 – Stabilizing and Clearing the Wine

NOTE: You should only proceed with Step 2 if your wine has a measured specific gravity of 0.998 or lower. If this specific gravity is not yet achieved, then wait a few more days (or longer) until fermentation has finished and you have achieved the target specific gravity. This is important, because you do not want to begin clearing the wine (dropping out the yeast) until the yeast has finished fermenting all of the sugars. If you begin stabilizing and clearing too soon, then you will end up with a sweet wine. Worse, the bottled sweetened wine might begin re-fermenting, and then you blow out corks or blow up bottles.

1. Clean and sanitize the following equipment: siphon assembly (usually an auto siphon and hose), glass or plastic carboy (6 gallons / 23 liters), airlock, rubber bung, and long-handled spoon.

2. If your fermenter contained grape skins of any type, remove the straining bag. Squeeze any remaining wine back into the fermenter. After, it’s okay to discard the bag.

3. Siphon wine into carboy. Try not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the primary fermenter. This is primarily spent yeast, and the purpose of siphoning is to slowly and gently transfer the young wine to a small vessel like the 6 gallon carboy where it can age anaerobically and clear. After siphoning the wine to the 6 gallon carboy, you can discard what’s remains in the primary fermenter, including the sediment, oak, raisins or elderflower infusion bag if your kit included it.

4. De-gas the wine. Beginning winemakers are surprised to learn that young wine is slightly carbonated after fermentation. The wine must be de-gassed to properly clear the wine. To de-gas the wine, use a long-handled spoon and stir the wine vigorously for approximately 5 minutes. Some winemakers use a drill-mounted stirring device. Insufficient stirring will keep too much CO2 dissolved in the wine, which will prevent the wine from properly clearing. For more information about wine degassing, click here.

5. Add the stabilizing compounds. Your wine kit likely includes packets of potassium sulphite and potassium sorbate. Add both packs into the wine and mix gently with a long-handled spoon. Be sure to stir for one minute.

6. Some wine kits contain a finishing blend, which is either a sweetener or a flavor. If your kit has a finishing blend, add it to the wine.

7. Wine kits typically include two packs of clarifying compounds, also known as finings. These include kieselsol (hydrated silica) and chitosan (mollusk shell extracted gelatin). First, add the package of kieselsol. Stir gently with a long handled spoon for 30 seconds, and then wait 5 minutes. After the 5 minutes wait, add the package of chitosan and stir gently for 30 seconds. It is important not to reverse the order of kieselsol and chitosan.

8. Top off the wine. Topping off is the practice of removing the airspace in the carboy by filling it with more wine. This protects the wine against unnecessary oxidation while the wine clears and matures. You may use a similar commercial or homemade wine for this purpose. Fill the carboy until you leave about one inch below the rubber stopper. Some kit manufacturers recommend topping off with water. Don’t use water. This only dilutes your precious wine. Also, don’t think this is cheating, because professional wineries also top off their wine (it is cheating if you have 1 gallon of wine in your carboy and you top off with 5 gallons, but come on!). Also, don’t think that this adds to the cost of your wine. You would have drunk that bottle of wine you used for topping off – just not today.

9. Attach Airlock & Rubber Bung. Let wine rest until day approximately day 42 in a cooler area (59-66˚F/15-19˚C), if possible.

Step 3 – Bottling the Wine

According to the wine kit manufacturers, this is approximately day 42, but it could be longer. Generally, there is no problem waiting longer. Of course, you should be aware that there is no particular advantage to waiting significantly longer. In substitution for oak barrel aging, most wine matures more rapidly (meaning it’s ready to drink) once bottled. Remember, only wine that is crystal clear is ready for bottling. If the wine is still cloudy, then wait for the wine to clear. This could be measured in days or weeks. Some winemakers filter their wine at this point, but proper filtration requires additional and expensive equipment.

1. Clean and sanitize the following equipment: primary fermenter (either bucket or carboy), siphon assembly, and wine bottles. 6 gallons of wine (23 liters) typically requires 30 750ml bottles.

2. Siphon the clear wine into the sanitized primary fermenter. Be careful not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the carboy. Why do we siphon the wine back into the primary fermenter? It’s never a good idea to bottle the wine directly from the current carboy, because if you disturb the sediment, then you end up filling bottles with cloudy wine. Yes, the cloudy wine will eventually drop clear in the bottles, but then you have bottles with unwanted sediment.

3. Transfer the wine into wine bottles. Most winemakers like to use a handy device called a bottle filler, which is a valve at the end of a stem which makes it easy to controllably fill bottles without making a mess. When filling bottles, leave about 1/2 inch from the bottom of the cork to the top of the wine.

4. Use a corker to cork the bottles. Wine corks are too big to press in by hand.

5. Stand the wine bottles upright for 1 day. This allows the cork to properly expand and seal. If you lay the bottles down immediately, they might leak. For long term storage, it’s best to lay the wine bottles on their side, which prevents the corks from drying out and leaking.

6. For long term storage, it’s best to keep your wine in a cooler environment (between 50-59˚F /10-15˚C) out of direct light. The wine kit manufacturers often suggest that your wine is now ready to drink. Try a bottle and decide what you think. Most winemakers find that allowing the wine to age for a few months helps to mellow the wine and develop the flavors.

Perhaps we should have called this article "Everything You Wanted to Know About Bentonite but Were Afraid to Ask", or perhaps "Everything You Didn't Want to Know About Bentonite and Would Definitely be Ashamed to Ask."

When beginner winemakers are starting their first winemaking kit, they encounter a mystery packet containing a strange granular substance called bentonite, and a common question is, "what is this bentonite stuff and why am I adding it to my juice?" Or for those more prone to paranoia, they ask, "what is this toxic waste sludge, and how soon will it take to kill me?"

You can relax and rest easy, because bentonite is not toxic waste. In fact, bentonite is an actual type of clay commonly mined in Wyoming. How wholesome is that? And it's not even mined next to the Superfund toxic waste dump. Bentonite is most commonly used during the initial stages of the winemaking process, usually during primary fermentation. Here's why and how it is used:

Why Bentonite is Used in Winemaking:

• Protein Stabilization: Bentonite helps to remove pesky proteins that cause cloudiness in the wine. Bentonite binds to these proteins and causes them to precipitate out, which is where they belong - out of our wine!
• Clarity: Bentonite is usually added at the beginning for fermentation, which allows it to work throughout the fermentation process, helping to achieve a clearer final product.

How to Use Bentonite in Winemaking

For 1 Gallon of Wine:

1. Measure Bentonite:
• Use 1 teaspoon (4 grams) of bentonite.
2. Prepare Bentonite Slurry:
• Dissolve the bentonite in ¼ cup (60 milliliters) of warm water. Stir thoroughly to avoid clumping and continue stirring until the bentonite is fully dissolved and forms a smooth slurry.
3. Add to Must:
• Pour the bentonite slurry into your must (the mixture of juice concentrate and water) before adding the yeast.
4. Mix Thoroughly:
• Stir the must well so that the bentonite is evenly distributed throughout the liquid.

For 5 Gallons of Wine:

1. Measure Bentonite:
• Use 4 ½ teaspoons (21 grams) of bentonite.
2. Prepare Bentonite Slurry:
• Dissolve the bentonite in 1 cup (250 milliliters) of warm water. Stir thoroughly to avoid clumping and continue stirring until the bentonite is fully dissolved and forms a smooth slurry.
3. Add to Must:
• Pour the bentonite slurry into your must (the mixture of juice concentrate and water) before adding the yeast.
4. Mix Thoroughly:
• Stir the must well so that the bentonite is evenly distributed throughout the liquid.

Okay, so now you know the secrets of bentonite. Bentonite is not some frightening mystery substance, and by using bentonite at the beginning of fermentation, winemakers can produce a clearer and more stable final wine.

Your wine has finished fermentation and you're pondering whether to bottle it dry or perhaps back sweeten it - but is the wine ready for back sweetening? Before a wine can be back sweetened, it must be stabilized. But what is wine stabilization? Wine stabilization is the process of preventing unwanted fermentation and spoilage by inhibiting or eliminating any residual yeast or bacteria. As a home wine maker, determining if your newly fermented wine is ready for stabilization is an important skill. If you are bottling a dry wine and there are no remaining sugars, then stabilization is not required. On the other hand, if you are planning to back sweeten your wine before bottling, then stabilization is critical. Stabilization is typically done after fermentation is complete to prevent any remaining yeast from fermenting additional sugars you may add during back sweetening. Here are the steps to determine if your wine is ready for stabilization:

Signs That Fermentation is Complete

The first step for determining if your wine is ready for stabilization is to make sure the fermentation has finished. We have several tools at our disposal:

1. Hydrometer Readings:
• A hydrometer measures the specific gravity (SG) of your wine, which indicates the amount of dissolved solids, which in the case of wine is primarily sugar. At the beginning of fermentation, the SG is high due to the high sugar content. Of course, this is what we expect, since the yeast will ferment those sugars to produce alcohol.
• During fermentation, yeast converts sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. As the sugars turn to alcohol, the density of our must decreases, which causes the SG to drop. When the SG readings are stable over a few days (typically below 1.000 for dry wines), it indicates that fermentation is complete.
• The winemaker's rule-of-thumb is to take daily readings over three consecutive days. If the readings remain consistent, fermentation is likely complete.
2. Lack of Bubbles:
• Taking lots of specific gravity readings is a lot of effort. During active fermentation, you'll see bubbles rising through the wine as the yeast eats sugar and produces carbon dioxide. When fermentation is complete, bubbling will stop completely, indicating that yeast has stopped because there is no more sugar.
3. Taste Test:
• A taste test can give you an idea of the wine’s dryness. If the wine tastes dry and lacks sweetness, then you'll generally conclude that most of the sugars have been converted to alcohol.
4. Airlock Activity:
• An airlock allows CO2 gas to escape while preventing air from entering the fermenter. During fermentation, the airlock will bubble actively. When fermentation is complete, the bubbling will slow down or stop altogether. Monitoring airlock activity is only useful if your fermentation vessel is sealed tightly. If you have a loose-fitting lid on a bucket, for example, then the airlock may not show activity as the CO2 leaks out from beneath the lid, so you have to use a little common sense here.
5. Monitor Wine Clarity:

• A wine's clarity is an important indicator in the winemaking process. A clear wine shows that most of the yeast and other particulates have settled out of suspension, indicating that the yeast cell count in the wine is low. Wine clarity is crucial for for successful wine stabilization. Even when an unfiltered wine appears clear to the naked eye, it can still harbor as many as 1000 yeast cells per milliliter. You can't see them, but they're there. While this sounds like a lot of residual yeast, a wine clear to the naked eye is generally considered ready for stabilization.

Additional Steps to Ensure Your Wine is Ready for Stabilization

1. Final Hydrometer Reading:
• As mentioned above, stable hydrometer readings over a few days indicate fermentation is complete. A final reading of below 1.000 is typical for dry wines. This is a good sign. If there are no more sugars, then there are no more sugars to referment. 
2. Allow Extra Time:
• Even after the signs of fermentation stopping, it's beneficial to give the wine additional time to ensure that fermentation has truly finished.
3. Secondary Fermentation (Optional):
• Most winemakers transfer their wine to a secondary fermenter for a few weeks (or months) to further clarify the wine and make sure fermentation is complete. This step can help in identifying any residual fermentation activity.

Stabilizing Your Wine

Okay, so you've made it through all of the above (though important) preamble. Now that you've confirmed that fermentation is complete, you can proceed with stabilization:

1. Transfer Wine to a Mixing Vessel (Carboy or another Secondary Fermenter). Siphon the wine to a clean vessel, leaving behind the layer of spent yeast in the current fermenter.
2. Add Potassium Metabisulfite:

• This compound helps protect the wine from oxidation and spoilage bacteria. The typical dose is 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons of wine. You can also use 1 Campden tablet per gallon. When using Campden tablets, be sure to crush them first and dissolve them in a small amount of water before adding to the wine.
1. Add Potassium Sorbate:
• Potassium sorbate prevents any remaining yeast from fermenting additional sugars. The typical dose is 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of wine.
2. Mix Thoroughly:
• Don't be lazy. Do a good job stirring both stabilizers into the wine. This should be done gently to avoid introducing oxygen into the wine.
3. Wait Before Back Sweetening:
• Allow the wine to sit for a day or two after adding stabilizers before back sweetening to ensure they are fully effective.

Okay, great! You now have a stabilized wine, which sets the stage for successful back sweetening and bottling, which brings us that much closer to drinking it!